All posts tagged: travel

Quarantine Diaries from Shanghai

2020 has been a whirlwind. I started the year with a month long trip to Australia, hiking incredible trails by the ocean and having plenty of Shiraz. I was savoring every moment of this once-in-a-lifetime trip when the news broke about coronavirus. Reading articles about the outbreak in China while very far away was both confusing and nerve-wracking. After all, Shanghai has been my home for the past 3 years. Like many, I had exciting travel plans lined up for 2020 (Bangkok, Tbilisi, Tokyo and more) until COVID-19 came along. As the virus paralyzed China during Chinese New Year and eventually the rest of the world, I wanted to take this time to reflect on the past 3 months. I’ve had many international friends ask after my well-being so I hope this post can show what life under quarantine (‘strict social distancing’ if you’d prefer) was like in Shanghai. Note: As I arrived in Shanghai early February, it was quite different from how international travel procedures are now. Things are much stricter in China as …

Unwinding in Hokkaido with an Onsen Hotel

When in Hokkaido, don’t miss a trip to visit Lake Shikotsu 支笏湖 and stay at this quiet yet luxurious onsen hotel. Tsuruga Mizu no Uta is an onsen spa and resort located in the Shikotsu-Toya National Park. With a warm fireplace and well-designed communal spaces, Tsuruga Hotel had me when I walked into the lobby and saw people roasting marshmallows in yukatas. It is rare to find such an effortless blend of modernity with Japanese onsen culture. Oh and the food! In the mornings, we enjoyed traditional Japanese breakfasts with our own clay pot of steamed rice. With the rice, we indulged in unlimited ikura and fresh sashimi. Dinner comes with a selection of sake, and each guest is served a plated main dish alongside the buffet. By the end of our weekend stay, we tried everything from wagyu beef to local Hokkaido produce. While Mizu no Uta is off-the-beaten path, it is well worth the trek for those that want a cozy retreat from the hustle and bustle of Sapporo city. I rarely share …

36 hours in Hokkaido

From fatty miso pork ramen to the best cream puffs you’ll ever taste, Hokkaido is truly Japan’s ‘kingdom of food.’ My friend L and I recently visited Sapporo with the aim of eating our way through town. Here is a curated food guide to the local gems we found & would recommend. This is a follow-up to my 36 hours in Kyoto: Food & Omiyage. Different city, different must-eats. Enjoy! Friday 9 a.m. Arrive at Sapporo Station Fly directly into Chitose Airport and take the airport express to Sapporo Station (~30 minutes). Sapporo Main Station is at the heart of the city’s central business district. Make sure to fully utilize the underpass that connects Sapporo Station with all of Sapporo’s major department stores (Stellar Place, AEON, etc.). It is a blessing especially in snowy weather and you will marvel at this well-designed & extremely convenient underpass. 11 a.m. Visit Kitakaro Honkan for brunch A 10-minute walk from Sapporo Station, Kitakaro is a beautiful confectionary shop housed in Sapporo’s oldest library. Renovated by Pritzker-winning architect Tadao Andao, …

Breakfast at the New Sushi Dai in Toyosu Market

Having previously enjoyed Sushi Dai in Tsukiji Market years ago, I decided to go check out the new Toyosu Market and grab an early breakfast there. For those that haven’t been, Toyosu Market 豊洲市場 is the upgraded and sleeker version of the ‘inner’ Tsukji Fish Market. Visitors now look from viewing decks to see the wholesale market and famous tuna auctions. This means less hustle and bustle in Toyosu Market, with visitors directed one way and wholesalers+buyers another way. Toyosu Market may be cleaner and air-conditioned but it is definitely less charming than the beloved Tsukiji Fish Market. That being said, the Market is still home to quite a lot of popular Japanese restaurants that made the move from Tsukiji Market. Keeping to tradition, they open bright and early (5am onwards!). So a fish market tour followed by a hearty breakfast is still a good itinerary for first time visitors. Restaurants are scattered around Toyosu Market but a good place to start is Block 6 Intermediate Seafood Wholesale Market. This is where Sushi Dai and Uogashi …

A Curated Guide to Paris Desserts

When in Paris, there is no better treat than a fresh croissant paired with un café. “Paris is a moveable feast” as Hemingway once said, so the occasional indulgence is almost a must. Last year, I traveled to Paris frequently for work and found myself revisiting many pâtisseries and bistros for French desserts. Some blew me away at first bite and some were simply classics. Here are three spots I personally adored in Paris, alongside some neighbourhood favourites for a post-feast stroll. Du Pain et Des Idées Every time I take a bite of the pistachio-stuffed chocolate escargot at Du Pain et Des Idées I’m reminded of why I love french pastries. Buttery, flakey and decadent–it doesn’t get better than this.  Du Pain et Des Idées is a must-visit in the 10th arrondissement and worthy of a “bread pilgrimage” according to Condé Nast Traveler, Waking up early to arrive, order, and devour a fresh escargot before grabbing an assortment of pastries for my colleagues was a delicious routine of mine. Note that Du Pain et Des Idées …

Dim Sum Fine Dining at Sense 8 誉八仙

Sense 8 誉八仙 is a gorgeous old-school Cantonese tea house in Xintiandi. From hairy crab shumai to truffle mushroom dumplings, you can find every style of dim sum and Cantonese delicacy at Sense 8.  The name 誉八仙 comes from the old Chinese legend of “Eight Immortals” and brings a dreamy element to the restaurant’s decor. Walking into Sense 8 is quite a lavish experience. Filled with Chinese antiques and hues of red and gold, the main dining room is constantly buzzing with servers refilling teapots and carrying bamboo baskets of fresh dim sum. It is said we often feast with our eyes and in that way, Sense 8 is a crowd-pleaser and Shanghai gem. Many have asked me for my favourite dim sum spot in Shanghai so here it is finally! Sense 8 is best during brunch time where fresh dim sum is served. Sometimes you’ll even find servers walking around with off-the-menu dim sum! My favourites include the shrimp har gau, crab roe shumai and assorted mushroom dumplings with truffle. Don’t forget to pair your food with some …

A Taste of Hangzhou: G20 fine-dining at Zi Wei Hall 紫薇厅

When visiting Hangzhou, there is nothing more iconic than seeing West Lake 西湖, once home to many of China’s most notable literary figures. Which is why on my recent trip I was thrilled to not only enjoy a sunny boat ride across West Lake but also discover a hidden culinary gem in the area. Tucked away in the West Lake State Guest House 西湖国宾馆, past the elegant Jiangnan-style rock gardens and zigzagging corridors is Zi Wei Hall 紫薇厅. Zi Wei Hall boasts many traditional Chinese dishes to give diners a taste of authentic ‘state level’ fine-dining. Having hosted the recent G20 delegations in 2016, the State Guest House and Zi Wei Hall had been closed to the general public for a while. But since it quietly reopened last year, Zi Wei Hall is now back as one of the most coveted spots to dine in the West Lake area. While dinners are reservations-only with priority given to hotel guests, lunch is more casual and walk-ins are accepted. Each dish I tried at Zi Wei Hall was a delicious …

Where the Tokyo locals go for Kaisen-don: Tsujihan つじ半

When in Tokyo, do as the locals do and you’ll be able to find local gems serving everything from marbled gyukatsu to casual kaiseki meals. On my list of popular local spots, Tsujihan is definitely my kaisen-don pick. A Japanese staple, kaisen-don 海鮮丼 is a hearty bowl of sushi rice topped with chunks of fresh sashimi. What makes Tsujihan’s kaisen-don particularly special is their so-called ‘golden ratio’ sashimi mix. As we sat around the L-shaped bar and watched the chefs mix together chunks of fresh fish topped with uni and ikura, the attention to detail that goes into creating one bowl is spectacular. Like all beloved Tokyo gems, Tsujihan is raved about on Tabelog 食べログ (Japan’s trusted review platform for all foodies), so don’t be surprised when you’re waiting in line with a bunch of Tokyo locals also vying for a seat! Note that Tsujihan only seats 12 at once. In general, weekend waits can be 1-2 hours long but on the weekdays, you may be able to slip in and out with Tokyo’s white-collared crowd much …